💍 Antique & Vintage Jewelry Identification & Value
The first question with old jewelry is fine vs costume: fine jewelry uses solid precious metal (gold, platinum, sterling) and genuine stones, while costume jewelry uses base metal, plating and glass or paste — and the value gap is enormous. The marks tell you which: look for gold karat marks (10K, 14K, 18K, 750), platinum (PLAT, 950), or sterling (925), versus 'gold-filled' / 'GF' / 'plated' / no mark. Beyond the metal, value comes from maker and era (signed Art Deco, Victorian, mid-century and designer pieces lead), gemstones, craftsmanship and condition. This guide separates fine from costume, reads the common marks, and gives hedged value ranges built from metal/stone value and sold prices — an educational estimate, not a formal appraisal.
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Value & identification guides
More antique & vintage jewelry identification & value guides are being added.
Frequently asked
How do I tell fine jewelry from costume?
Check for a metal mark: gold (10K/14K/18K/750), platinum (PLAT/950) or sterling (925) means fine; 'gold-filled', 'GF', 'plated' or no mark usually means costume. Fine jewelry feels heavier for its size, doesn't discolour skin, and its stones are set, not glued.
Is signed vintage costume jewelry worth anything?
Sometimes yes — signed pieces by collected makers (Trifari, Coro, Miriam Haskell, Weiss and others) can be worth well beyond their materials, especially rare designs in good condition. Unsigned generic costume jewelry is usually low value.
What lowers antique jewelry value most?
Damage and repairs: missing or replaced stones, broken clasps, re-shanked rings, worn plating, and removed or illegible maker marks all cut value. Original condition, an intact signature and complete matched sets carry a premium.
Value ranges are indicative educational estimates based on category, era, maker and condition — not a formal appraisal. Ranges reflect sold prices only.